Friday, August 28, 2009

good morning starrshine

.
Hey all. Great balls of fire, I'm back in Mali.

Just kidding. Here's a post for the starr fellowship - it funded my time in mali (and let me meet the lovely Alan Harlam and some hella cool kids - check out their adventures at http://siihub.wordpress.com/)


.....Magic

"So who's supposed to do that?

Wait WHAT?”

I said that a lot this summer.

Like my mom, I’m methodical to a T in my work. The same part of me prompted the ten thousand questions I asked our guide in Dogon country. “Yes, you said the Dogon women grew beans here. But I guess what I’m wondering is…what SPECIES of bean?”

The sauce is in the details, the details in the method. My method means spending seven hours to read one chapter of theory in the Sci Li. I never let things go — and the result is an excruciating, inescapable, and perversely glorious non-productivity sandwich.

Working in a small NGO socked the method.

The previous leaders of my project had left by the time we arrived, and my own judgment got a startling promotion. We set dates and raced to meet them; we flew by the seat of our pants. And how did we do? The yardstick to measure our work was hiding out in the same cave as the manual. We invented our evaluative tools alongside their subject.

It’s a fearless, fast-paced language – and MHOP’s Caitlin Cohen speaks it with a striking fluency. It means racing down a road that runs out of bricks, because either the bricklayer’ll get there first or you’ll jump the gap. It’s those SAT prep books’ response to my snail-like reading style: catch the first word and the last phrase, and trust your judgment for what comes in between.

How did we stay sane? Like stressed-out office shepherds, we’d each be fretting over our hillside of tasks. But then. Remarkably, Caitlin would set aside her own mountain range of sheep to call us home.

“Who’s in the mood for Mexican?”

Then, mining a pantry of Malian bouillon cubes, cocoa powder and cajun spice seasoning, she’d fashion the best Mole sauce of my life. Needless to say, without a recipe.

Tuesday, August 18, 2009

home again!

hey ya to all from the great plains of illinois.



the scent of being home makes my toes stretch out in delight. it feels like the end of a long day - i'm eating farmers market tomatoes like apples, wearing my dad's t-shirts, dog tired and curled up under two blankets even after turning off the AC when no one's looking. lord, i think i became a malian.


dogon country was absolutely striking - valleys of bright green millet, shocking red mountains, and gnarly thousand-year-old trees that stretch and yawn like Ents. during the jurassic period, Land Before Time 1 through 13 were filmed there. we trekked along a sweeping falaise that overlooks the Gondo plains, stopping in square-hutted Dogon villages that cling to the cliffside or perch on top.








even higher than Dogon villages are abandoned granaries of the Tellem - an ancient people who must have had wings. some of the less accessable Dogon villages have been abandoned to new sites just a hundred meters down the cliff side; the Dogon tradition is incredibly alive. we slept under the stars on roofs belonging to the dugutigis, or village chiefs, and offered Kola nuts to Dogon elders who are important in the animist tradition. we slept and woke with the sun, and i believe i ate 7 whole sheep.




my last week passed slowly but all at once as only last weeks can. i spent a lot of time with soukeina's family (and am using flower-ifically henna'd hands and feet to type this).
soukeina’s sister said, “the sun will miss you, hawa gaku. the trees of mali will miss you. even the To will miss you. i will miss you too much, hawa gaku.” aw jeez. their hearts are so sweeping and so full, they couldn't have been kinder. may god hold them in the hollow of his hand.



on my last night, i carried my mattress down to the maternity ward of the Sikoro clinic and followed the wonderful, wrinkled, hand-holding and turban-wearing and breathtakingly competent Asa Cisse, a sage femme who has delivered babies for 22 years, though she assured me that she sprinted out of the room the first time she saw a birth. i first saw a woman being sutured for a tear; and then, the birth of two babies. it's a BYO set-up - women are expected to come with old pagnes (meters of cloth) and a packet of dish detergent to keep things clean. the first woman had walked so far that she was fully dilated, and her baby was born within 2 minutes. a tiny tiny little primate gal covered in goo and so beautiful that you can’t speak. wow.

sikoro still feels like home - i can already feel i'll miss it. not to mention, of course, my mhop peeps. devon, alex, anna - i'm asking you to fashion me a shrine under the office fan, nothing too ornate, just those little raspberry-flavored zinc supplements from the '70s and bananas and a live chicken and a dusting of oatmeal oats. talk to it every once and a while. and if i die and never return, light a candle and let it burn, 'cuz light transcends time. i'm thinking about you guys.


grandma toots is coming to visit next week - i've got to pick out a hundred or so of the 7,234,234,253 pictures i took. i went to the doctor and was surprised to see i'd lost a ton of weight this summer -- no good since i was already scrawny. pretty fixable though, as once my grandma gets here i'm gonna go on a plan i'll call "South Carrot Cake." yesterday i took a glorious, soapy hot shower and have smooth legs for the first time of the summer -- it felt like shearing a sheep.

thanks so much for being with me this summer. i can't tell you how much your kind words lifted me up.

i got the Rolly on my arm and i'm pouring Chandon, and i roll the best To 'cuz I got it going on, but i couldn't mhop it like it's hot without you.


much love, and can't wait to see you.

xoxoxo hawa gaku xoxox

Saturday, August 1, 2009

Soukeina

Dear friends,

This past week, Alex and Devon and I went on an overnight trip to Segou, a beautiful sleepy town on the Niger river. That night at dinner, we heard some terrible news from home.

Our wonderful Soukeina, the lead community health worker who took me under her wing from my first days here, had been ill on Monday, complaining of malaria. On Tuesday morning, she was suddenly much worse; she became terribly ill, and at 5 pm she called around her family to ask for their pardon. She died only a few minutes later.

When she was 9, she spent a year in France to have a complicated heart surgery through Medecins Sans Frontiers; all we can guess is that the anemia caused by malaria caused a fatal complication with her heart condition.

To know Soukeina was to love and admire her. She was a nurse, a mother, and a beloved sister and daughter; she was spunky and razor-sharp, kind and generous, with a sassy sense of humor and the biggest heart of anyone I've known.

We caught a 4 am bus and made it back in time for the funeral, which was the morning after her death. The family comp
ound was packed with people; the dugutigi, the chief of Sikoro, led many of the benedictions.

I'm heading to her family's house now - they've welcomed me so many times. I can't imagine their grief. I've got with me the presents I was going to give Soukeina next week and a little money to help out, the next weeks will be so hard for them.

Tomorrow, Alex and I will leave for a week in Dogon country; then, we'll be back in Bamako for a week before I leave for the states.

Love from the 'ko,

xxx Hawa